Olomouc

Olomouc was a welcome break from the tourist crowds and prices of Prague.  As soon as we saw the main square in Olomouc, which by the way has a great name Horni namesti, we knew this place was different from Prague – there was just one money exchange office that we could spot, and only a handful of restaurants, and no souvenir shops.  It looked like (I imagine) Prague looked about 15 years ago.  Actually, come to think of it, we first realized this town was different even before we saw the square - when we went to a local brewery, and were able to eat 2 full meals and drink 2 beers for the price of 1 meal in any equally well located restaurant in Prague.  Beers were great, meals were too, so we liked the place immediately.

Shortly after lunch, Greg, one of the owners of our hostel Poets’ Corner, took us on a free walking tour of Olomouc.  Apparently they (Greg and Francine, both Aussies who settled in Olomouc) take it very personally when people view Olomouc as the place to crash for the night on the way to Prague.  It really bugs them when people stay the night, maybe visit one pub, and then write on the page that the hostel was great, but the town is nothing much to look at.  Plus it’s not good for their business.  So, they do whatever they can to promote Olomouc, and they do a great job.   The tour gave us a great overview of the town’s history, most prominent buildings, and (very importantly) the local eateries and dive bars.   It even covered in some detail the torture technics used on a local priest (later canonized as a martyr.)  The day ended with the wireworks shot right in front of our eyes.  So much so, that when I was filming it, and was looking up to do so, I was getting crap in my eyes.  They don’t care much about fire safety there, I gather.   Oh, and right before the fireworks the local orchestra played (and the 70 year old Czech star sang) some classical pieces including “Yesterday” by Beatles, “Bohemian Rhapsody” by Queen,  cover from the movie “Flash Dance”, “I will Survive”, and that song that made Susan Doyle famous on the  British version of American Idol.  We were thoroughly entertained, and danced the night away on the Horni Namesti.  We did so with our newly found friends – 2 more Aussies and a German girl.

The following day brought around more surprises.  As we stood waiting for the Astronomical clock to do its Communist dance at noon (the clock was rebuilt after the war to fix the façade, and the moving Saint figures were replaced with the working class ones), there was some sort of celebration going on at the Horni namesti where 4 marching bands from different countries were showing off their skills.  Another surprise was when we were allowed to climb the towers of the tallest buildings for free – feat almost unachievable in Prague, or any other touristy place.  Naturally, we ended this day at the pub as well.

In the morning we were off to Bratislava, which was a short 1hr train ride away.

2011.09.02 Olomouc